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A Day in Abaco
by Captain John Walker, s/v Red Label

I won’t say this is a typical day. Just today.

We started out at Matt Lowe Cay just outside, but a world away from, Marsh Harbor. Went out to Johnny’s Cay, (a mile and a half), where there was supposed to be good diving. Decided there was too much current and waves over the reef to use the Brownie, so turned around. God, I hate getting old and cautious.

Next went toward Sandy Cay, one of a hundred with that name. This one supposedly had mooring buoys. It doesn’t. (Whoops, it was the wrong Sandy Cay). Dolphins beside me, but they’re too busy hunting to play. Went around inside (outside Man-o-War harbor) and anchored. It was about lunchtime.

Finished the last of the baloney I’d bought in Fox Town because that was all they had. Waited a while for the baloney to settle, then snorkeled out to the reef/rocks. Mostly because there was no wind and I was hot. Saw all the usual fish and critters, plus a lobster and two mutton snapper. Decided it wasn’t worth setting up the u/w video, but to come back later, with my untried spear.

A sailboat had come in with one guy and seven boys aboard. The boat was a double ender (no room except in the middle) less than 30 feet long. They snorkel for a while, then leave. A day charter out of Marsh Harbor. While I was heaving a sigh of relief, another sail comes in, this one flying a huge Texas flag. I recover from the earlier swim enough to go back snorkeling, this time with the spear. It takes four shots (that lobster carapace is tough!) Get it back to the boat (against the current), wring it and put the tail in the fridge.

Then I see five charter cats go into Man-o-War Harbor. They turn around before the last one gets inside (it’s a small harbor) and come over next to me and raft up. All five of them. The Texas boat is smart and leaves. I’ve had too much wine and have no place better to go, so I stay put. Besides, they’re downwind of me.

I fix a salad with all the goodies I picked up in Marsh Harbor, pour a bit of tequila marinade on the lobster tail and put it on the grill. Didn’t burn the shell this time. After all that, I only ate half (it was a large lobster), so the rest went into a baggie for another day.

They’re still partying on the raft, so I take my glass of wine up on the bow. Watch the Hopetown lighthouse, remembering when our sailing club partied hard enough to shut it down. Wonder how long it has had its characteristics. Even with the anchor light, there are lots of stars. Almost the same stars Columbus saw (he was south of here). See a meteor. Too much wine and the raft party is over, so I go to bed.

The raft breaks up about 11:00. Five boats wandering around in the dark. Actually three; two stayed rafted on the original anchor. One anchors fairly close to me. I let him and Moorings worry about that and go back to bed.

Note: I wrote this the day after, still glowing with good feelings from the wine, lobster, fresh salad, snorkeling and getting out of Marsh Harbor. I did edit it for mistakes, but that’s all. This is the way it can (should) be.